I’m all about embracing a new look but let’s face it, trends this hot tend to burn out just as fast as they came.  The detractors, and there are many, are loyal to a glossy finish.  So the question is, knowing the trend won’t last, do you spend your hard earned Benjamins on a matte nail polish or a matte top coat?  Let me share the pros and cons of each before you decide. 

Matte Nail Polish
Pro: Quick drying. The formula dries lightening fast allowing you to polish your nails on the go.

Pro: A true matte finish. If you want that flat wall paint look, matte polishes deliver.

Pro: Unique colors. The shimmery polishes aren’t easily replicated.  They have a “lit from within” quality that the matte finish accentuates.

Pro & Con: No base/top coat required. While this speeds up the manicure process it also adds no protection in terms of wear time.

Con: Short life span. The lack of base/top coat means you’ll get three days tops out of a manicure.  Immersing in water accelerates the chipping.  Applying a base coat can yield an uneven finish.

Con: Application issues. The matte finish and quick dry time leave little room for error.  Uneven brush strokes and nail imperfections are magnified.

Matte Top Coat
Pro: Versatile and affordable. Just one bottle will mattify any polish you already own.  Essentially you get an entire wardrobe of matte polish with one purchase.

Pro: Protection. Not only does a matte top coat alter the finish of any polish, it’s also formulated to extend wear like a traditional top coat.

Pro: Smooth application. The formula issues that plague matte polishes don’t apply.  The most mattifying top coats can still show brush marks but they are easier to avoid.

Pro/Con: Lightens polish. The more mattifying the top coat, the more milky its appearance.  This lightens the hue of the polish underneath.  You’ll never get a jet black matte using a top coat.  On the plus side, it gives a frosted glass look to glitter polishes.

Con: Product restrictions. This actually applies to the polish as well.  Hand creams, body lotions and oils will alter the finish, giving it a satin appearance.

Con: Dry time. Unlike traditional top coats, the drying time is much longer.  You have to be patient to avoid getting wrinkles or smudges in the finish.

What’s my take?  While there are some matte polishes that are unique enough to purchase, I prefer the simplicity of one product to get the job done.

image credit: rainflies on flickr

If there’s one rule when it comes to a successful manicure, it’s this: there are no short cuts!  In this day and age, you’d think manicure basics would be common knowledge, yet I still hear complaints on a daily basis about how poorly a polish wears.  In fact, a recent Twitter search for the term “nail polish” showed the majority of tweets are to complain about chipping.

Inquiries about the type of base and top coats used were met with responses saying there wasn’t time for what I consider the two most essential manicure steps!  So to save you some frustration, I give you my top four reasons why manicures face an untimely death.

No base and top coat. Skipping base and top coat is like wearing foundation without primer and powder then wondering why your makeup melted down your face.  Base coat helps the polish grip to your nail.  Top coat seals and protects.  Refresh your top coat every other day for added protection.

Oils on the nail plate. Moisturizing polish removers, hand lotions and cuticle treatments all leave oils on your nail surface, not to mention the natural oils from your own body.  Oil causes polish to lift.  Cleanse the nail bed with a nail prep product or household white vinegar.

Applying thick coats of polish. It may be easier to just slap on a thick coat of polish and call it a day but doing so affects the dry-time and makes your lacquer more prone to chips.  Apply thin coats even if that means a shade requires three layers to achieve opacity.  The first coat just provides coverage while the second evens out bald spots.

Polishing the nail bed only.  Aside from chipping, extreme tip wear is the first sign of poor application.  Swiping the free edge and slightly underneath the nail with base, polish and top coat will make a world of difference in your manicure’s longevity.

Ladies, it’s not completely your fault.  The majority of you go to a professional and they should know better.  What are you paying them for but to give their educated opinion?  After all, it is their work you’re wearing.  They should want you to receive compliments not judgmental stares.  Though the sad reality is that a lot of techs sport bad french manicures themselves.

In my perfect world there would be no French manicure but I’m not delusional.  Regardless of my protests they will continue to be a staple of nail fashion so this is my plea to you.  Tell your friends, your family, heck even your frenemies because they deserve nice nails too.  Tell them about my Four French Manicure Don’ts and help me end the tackiness that has put such a negative connotation on the look.

The whole point behind a French manicure is to make perfect something that isn’t.  To give your nails a flawless, natural appearance.  So why do so many women wear French’s that look fake, scary and downright hideous?  They either don’t know any better or they’re surrounded by too many women wearing the same look to break from the herd.  It’s time to end the cycle gals.  Follow these four rules to avoid me showing up at your door, polish remover in hand.

Don’t Wear Super Squared Edges – A soft, natural shape, like round or squoval (squared-oval), is more flattering than a hard edge.  Those harsh squares scream artificial.

Don’t Wear Bright White Tips – Let’s get real here for a second, there is nothing natural about stark white tips.  So why call attention to just how unreal yours are?  Using a soft, off-white hue, dubbed an American Manicure, mimics your natural nail color.

Don’t Wear Uber-Thick Tips – Meaning, keep your nails short or active length.  The best French’s I’ve seen are created with a thin stroke of white at the tip.  That also means you don’t start the line halfway down your nail bed.  My nails are detached but they aren’t that detached. If yours are, opaque polishes are your new BFF.

Don’t Ignore Your Skin Tone – I’m sure we would all love to have rosy pink skin peeking up through our nail plate but genetics is in charge here.  Wearing a super pink base color when your skin is olive or yellow-based doesn’t work.  Opt for a creamy nude or peachy beige to best suit your coloring.

Though even as recent as last fall I also gave in to preconceived notions about nail color.  During the season premiere of Gossip Girl I spied a set of vampy talons claw Nate Archibald’s chest and thought, “Rut-roh, what kind of vixen has Nate fallen prey to?!”  Without even a word or a glimpse of her face, I pre-judged another woman based on her nail polish.

I say it’s time we break these stereotypes and realize that nail color is an accessory, not a personality trait.  Rather than let our nails define us, we need define what they mean in how we incorporate polish into our overall style.

Let’s take a look at how the same nail color can take on completely opposite attitudes depending on the ensemble.

Black
Stereotype: The shade of rock stars and goths, a black nail is edgy and dark best suited to Elvira, hipsters and legions of punk rock fans.

Truth: Worn on short, slightly rounded nails, black is elegant and what I consider a “new neutral.”  Black has joined Red, Pink and Sheer as staples of a well rounded nail wardrobe.  It has surpassed trends to become a classic.  You can wear it rocker chic or upscale evening as shown on Taylor Momsen (left).  If you feel jet black is too harsh try a blackened plum, berry or red.

White
Stereotype: White is mod, chalky and cheesy, like you painted your nails with Wite-Out.

Truth: A creamy white looks fresh and clean.  The key is to pair it with soft shapes like the top on Lea Michele (far right) or a modern take on retro like Gwen Stefani’s style (near right).  Even an off-white will work as long as it’s opaque.  Just avoid pearly opalescent shades.  They can easily move you into grandma territory.

Green
Stereotype: A lot of women feel that unique colors like green, blue and gray are best left to the teen/young adult scene.  That unusual nail shades aren’t age appropriate once you pass 30.  They’re often considered too funky and outrageous for everyday wear.

Truth: As a thirty-something and longtime proponent of green nails I never understood the aversion to bold polish colors.  They may be more difficult to wear but certainly not impossible.  Women looking for a work friendly shade should try a dove grey or pastel green like the one shown on the Chanel Fall runway (far left).  For night, opt for a darker version that isn’t all in your face screaming, “Hey, I”m wearing green!” like the blackened teal shown at the Doo.Ri Fall show (near left).

Each season Creative Director Nonie Creme creates a palette of on trend colors based on her behind the scenes work at Fashion Week and other editorial shoots.  There is always something for everyone in her colors choices from the most conservative nail wearer to the most outrageous (that’s me!).  Combine that with top of the line nail and skin care treatments and you have one spectacular brand.

Whether you’re just dipping your toe into the butter LONDON waters or you’re looking to expand your existing stash, you can’t go wrong with my personal favorites from the line:

butter LONDON Thames: The color that started it all for me.  Greens are having their moment this season and whether you follow the trends or just love color, this is a definite must have.  A luscious blue-green shimmer, Thames will leave your tips looking like little jewels.  Be sure to check out the recently launched British Racing Green as well.

butter LONDON Crumpet: Deep, caramel nudes are at the height of fashion right now.  Celebrities and everyday women are turning to them for the flesh toned “mannequin hands” look and Crumpet is the perfect choice.  Rich, creamy, work appropriate and chic.  What more could you ask for?

butter LONDON Billy No Mates: Admittedly gray isn’t the easiest nail color to pull off but the most flattering version is a pale, dove grey like Billy No Mates.  It has a a bit of fashion forward edge, a subtle everyday softness and it goes with just about any ensemble.  If you’re on the fence about grey, this one will push you over the edge.

butter London Nail Foundation Flawless Basecoat: The perfect base coat is as essential to your manicure as primer to foundation application.  That’s where Nail Foundation comes in.  If you’re plagued with ridges or nail imperfections of any kind, this is your answer.  I’ve tried a LOT of ridge filling base coats to cover my extremely weak looking tips and this is by far the best.  For a flawless finish that will make your nail beds the envy of your friends run, don’t walk, to pick up a bottle.  Tip: Apply a coat of the matte drying base coat OVER your nude hued polishes to update your look.

butter LONDON Hardwear P.D. Quick Topcoat : No manicure is complete without top coat and the faster it dries, the better.  Who has time anymore to wait?  The problem with the leading quick dry top coats is that they tend to be thick and difficult to work with.  I think you all know who I’m talking about here.  Well, Hardwear P.D. Quick (Pretty Darn Quick) lives up to its name while delivering a thin, spreadable formula that dries to a glass-like finish.

butter LONDON goes on sale Thursday, September 3rd on The Fairest.